For those keen to enter Tel Aviv’s historical sites,
Elkonin Hotel
— a remarkable 1913 structure converted into one of Neveh Tzedek’s top boutique luxury hotels — you have a great new excuse to stop by.

Following its reopening in 2022 as a non-kosher establishment focusing on seafood, the venue has been relaunched as Rova Alef, offering an elevated kosher fish and dairy culinary experience.

Inspired by the Ashdod neighborhood where chef Evyatar Malka was raised, Rova Alef celebrates his youth close to the harbor. This culinary offering merges traditional family and local dishes from the area with contemporary tastes.
Tel Aviv
Alongside his business associate, Yonatan Greenberg (who also owns the wine bar Winona Forever), Malka has developed a dining establishment that pays tribute to Ashdood – a city, as he puts it, “justifiably proud of its cuisine.”

An overview of the Rova Alef restaurant

Nestled on the tranquil backstreet of the hotel, Rova Alef embodies the historical allure of the area.
Elkonin
— the city’s premier hotel — while incorporating a inviting atmosphere via earthy hues, wooden details, abundant foliage, subtle florals, and gentle candlelight. The venue transitions smoothly from a bustling eating section equipped with shared tables to a chic interior showcasing an exposed kitchen and a meticulously designed bar — every component reflecting the tastes and inspirations of Ashdod, Tel Aviv, and the wider Mediterranean region.

To get up close with all the excitement, settle down at the bar and dive into a cocktail list where traditional favorites mingle with daring Rova Alef innovations. Standout among them is the Milk Punch ( priced at NIS 62), which offers a silky-smooth yet smoky experience, combining cardamom-infused gin, white vermouth, grapefruit, passion fruit, and goat’s milk. Each iconic beverage also comes paired with an alternative variant influenced by either Ashdod or the Mediterranean Sea, providing a spirited twist on well-loved drinks.

Malka’s cuisine is a fusion of childhood nostalgia and culinary expertise, rooted in a deep respect for fresh fish, fire-based cooking techniques – from delicate sears to open-flame roasting – and a commitment to hands-on preparation from scratch.

Our dinner began with the Brioche Challah paired with butter and pickled peppers (NIS 32). We then moved on to an assortment of petite dishes featuring both raw and marinated seafood selections such as the Lakerda Bruschetta (NIS 69) along with the Red on Red—red tuna sashimi complemented by blood orange aguachile (NIS 94).

Following were the vegetable dishes: Lima Beans prepared in a Cacio e Pepe style (NIS 69), alongside Charcoal-Grilled Artichokes topped with za’atar gremolata and pistachios (NIS 82).

We left space for the evening’s highlights and ordered two types of pasta: Seared Sweet Potato Agnolotti priced at NIS 96, and The King’s Daughter featuring bigoli pasta cooked with lemon butter, artichokes, sourdough crumbs, and topped with Parmesan cheese costing NIS 102.

Sure, the prices may cause you to hesitate – particularly for dishes such as the Red Mullet Sea Bass served with ratatouille and gnocchi alla Romana ( priced at NIS 136), or the Dover Sole Meunière which comes with quite a hefty price tag of NIS 370. However, considering that you’re enjoying this meal within the charming confines of Neveh Tzedek, located in a boutique luxury hotel, perhaps these costs aren’t so surprising after all.

Hotel proprietor Dominic Romano envisions grand developments for Elkonin’s upcoming phase, featuring a ground-floor cafe and a rooftop lounge scheduled for launch soon. Additionally, the rooftop swimming pool will debut in April, ideal for anyone looking to plan a getaway or a local vacation. For reservations, visit elkonintelaviv.com.

• Rova Alef
• Elkonin Hotel
• 9 Lilienblum Street, Tel Aviv
• Sun.-Thur., 6 p.m.-1 a.m.
• Kashrut: Tel Aviv Rabbinate

The author was a visitor at the eatery.

Lauren Gumport is passionate about traveling and writing about her travels; she also serves as the Vice President of Communications at the travel technology startup Faye Travel Insurance. Her travel advice has been showcased in various publications.
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