What makes a
summer
? To
Finns
it’s about having access to a cabin (owned, borrowed, or rented), proximity to water (such as a lake or the ocean), and being
able to disconnect
and, of course, a
sauna
Yes, even during the summer months. As temperatures rise across Southern Europe, and an increasing number of people opt for “cooler getaways,” Finland seems like an ideal summer destination.

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The artist and writer
Tove Jansson
played a significant role in bringing Finnish culture to a broader public through her work
Moomins
books, along with her adult fiction.

Her initial and most renowned book,
The Summer Book
has recently been adapted into a movie featuring Glenn Close, which will likely bring it—and the leisurely pace of summertime life it portrays—to fresh viewers.

Finnish people take escaping the routine very seriously; indeed, this nation has approximately 500,000 vacation cottages for a population of 5.5 million.

Curious to get a taste of this firsthand, I decide to head east along the coastline from
Helsinki
to the islands that influenced Jansson – beginning with
Pellinge
The writer, born in 1914 and passed away in 2001, used to spend her childhood summers here, in one of the red and yellow houses that continue to line the coast.

Local inhabitant Erika Englund has created a mystery walk through the forest where Jansson spent her childhood. “Tove and her friend Abe were responsible for gathering fresh milk in a jug each day,” explains Erika. “They transformed it into an activity filled with leaping, jumping, and various physical tasks, such as running past a large stone, something Abe’s grandchildren continue today.”

This early-life obstacle influenced Jansson’s
The Book About Moomin
,
Mymble
and
Little My
and in return Erika’s
Island Riddles trail
– a soft, ethereal manner to pass a few hours among the trees.

I tackle a puzzle where I pour water into a well, causing the following hint to appear above the surface, after which I search for a red umbrella hidden among the trees. Each group works on the task individually, with the entire afternoon available to finish the clues based on riddles.

Numerous groups go for picnics and turn it into an entire outing. “Tove wasn’t fond of much commotion, so we honor that and aim to handle her heritage with care,” says Erika.

After exiting the forest, I can spot the small island of
Klovharu
where, in later years, Jansson constructed a cabin alongside her partner, Tuulikki Pietilä. The two artists spent 28 summers here in almost complete seclusion, dedicating themselves to work, swimming in the ocean, and unwinding in their small sauna. They also co-authored a book detailing their experiences during this period, titled
Notes from an Island
. The cottage and island are currently owned by
Pellinge Hembygdsförening
a local historical society, which rents out the site as an artist’s accommodation.

Although Jansson can fish for herself, I lack the time and gear, so I go to the stylish restaurant at
Pellinge Marina
For toast Skagen – an open-faced sandwich featuring shrimp, red onion, and salmon caviar. This is followed by delicate fresh fish from the archipelago, accompanied by potatoes, capers, and sour cucumber, after which I take the complimentary ferry back to the mainland.

I’m residing near Porvoo, an exceptionally well-maintained historic town where locals take great pride in their link to Jansson, with Moomins products visible through numerous store windows. I am staying at a stylish Art Nouveau-themed establishment.
Runo hotel
at the heart of it. Originally a library, it now features 56 bedchambers adorned with artwork, an upper-floor sauna, and frequent jazz evenings.

I go on a guided walk with Birgitta Palmqvist from
Porvoo Tours
To discover the past of Finland’s second-oldest city. The historical district was restored following a blaze in 1760 and has remained carefully maintained ever since; residing in one of the vibrant wooden homes along the stone-paved roads means being committed to its upkeep—and the residents take great pride in this effort. From
Honkala restaurant,
Where my path ends, there are vistas of the famous red wooden buildings along the river, which were previously utilized for the salt trade.

Curving alongside the shoreline, I go through
Loviisa
a place known as the “best small town in Finland,” where locals are getting ready to welcome visitors into their historic wooden homes and gardens during the yearly Loviisa Heritage Homes festival.

From the harbor of Kotka, I take a ferry to
Kaunissaari
– a popular holiday destination (the name means “beautiful island”), with a long sandy beach. I’m there before many of the summer residents arrive and I look enviously at their idyllic cottages, wishing I too could spend the whole season here.

Nothing significant is happening — but that’s the idea. I enjoy spending my time walking, swimming, and having salmon soup.

On the vessel returning to Kotka, I notice
Rankki
, where
The Summer Book
was captured on film, along with the small hut constructed specifically for the movie. The island, which also features private residences, is more extensive than it appears in the footage; Jansson’s actual island would not have been large enough for filming purposes.

Back on the main land, I go to visit the
Maritime Centre Vellamo
, where an exhibit known as
Bravery, Liberty, Affection! A Moomintroll Journey
introduced this year to commemorate 80 years since the initial one
Moomins
The book was released (available until March 2027). Kids can explore a copy of the Moomin house and climb over stones with an animated ocean around them.

Tonight’s lodging is appropriately a cottage. A few miles from Kotka,
Santalahti resort
features a variety of cabins, bungalows, camp sites, flats, and even transparent domes, scattered throughout a wooded coastline.

Following a calm stroll through the forest, I meet up with companions in a glass-enclosed sauna, where we observe the water while the heat increases, then refresh ourselves with cold plunges into the ocean accessed through a wooden path.

Although summer doesn’t last long, the days feel extended, and, much like a Finn, I’m making the most of every bit of sunlight, salty sea air, and sauna time I can get. I believe Jansson would understand.

Getting there

Ailsa Sheldon was invited by Visit Finland and Finnair, which offers round-trip flights from London, Manchester, and Edinburgh to Helsinki starting at £168. Porvoo is located one hour’ drive east of Helsinki.
finnair.com

Staying there

Doubles at Runo in Porvoo start from €171 (£148), including breakfast.
runohotel.com

Self-contained chalets at Santalahti resort begin at €89 (£77) (for two people) and sauna houses start at €198 (£171) (accommodating four).
santalahti.fi

More info

visitfinland.com