Daisuke Mori felt down about shutting his Michelin-starred eatery, Takumi, yet he enjoys the liberty of preparing meals exclusively for members at the private club, Carlyle & Co.

A significant number of eateries globally have shut down due to the impacts of the Covid-19 pandemic. Numerous closures were driven primarily by financial losses rather than the quality of food offered, leading to the unfortunate loss of several excellent dining spots.

One victim in Hong Kong was
Takumi by Daisuke Mori
.

After witnessing the restaurant secure its initial Michelin star in 2017, chef Daisuke Mori — who has worked at a three-Michelin-star establishment — continues his culinary journey.
JoEl Robuchon
In Tokyo, it came as a surprise to his dedicated customers that Takumi shut down shortly after maintaining its Michelin star for eight years in a row.

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“He expresses mixed feelings about closing Takumi,” he states. “While I am proud of our achievements and the legacy we created with Takumi, I felt prepared for fresh challenges ahead.” Currently, this chef has taken up the role of executive chef at the private members’ club Carlyle & Co located in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon.

When asked about the distinctions between running a restaurant and managing the kitchens of an elite members’ club, Mori mentions that the pressures vary somewhat.

At a club, your primary focus is on patrons who keep coming back. This adds an extra layer of responsibility to make sure their expectations are not only met but surpassed, ensuring they consistently enjoy their visits.

It will mark his tenth year in the city, and Mori believes that although Hong Kong presents challenges professionally, it also provides significant rewards for him.
Hong Kong is among the leading cities for food lovers.
Around the globe, he mentions – many individuals reside there who have journeyed extensively just “to dine at top eateries for exceptional cuisine.”

The chef believes that the taste preferences in Hong Kong are quite refined, particularly concerning the quality of ingredients and the standards expected from dining experiences.

Carlyle & Co features three distinct dining ideas, with Mori crafting a unique program for each of them.

The primary eatery, The Brasserie, will showcase his hallmark approach emphasizing seasonal ingredients blended with French culinary methods and infused with a Japanese flair.

At Cafe Carlyle, they will concentrate on offering petite portions designed for sharing, whereas the Bar & Lounge will dish out Chinese comfort cuisine alongside classic Western fare.

The cuisine at The Brasserie showcases Mori’s expertise in high-end dining. One standout offering is a barley risotto.
abalone
pairing the grain with a rich, velvety sauce, alongside a tender abalone, which can be quite challenging to get just right in terms of texture.

Considering how commonly Wagyu is featured across restaurants in Hong Kong, one might assume that his charcoaled Wagyu tenderloin wouldn’t impress seasoned eaters too much.

However, Mori’s rendition stands out since he opts for a less sought-after, leaner cut.
Wagyu
When cooked using the chargrill method, it achieves a buttery-soft texture without being overly greasy.

Mori mentions that he has been given greater creative liberty at the private members’ club compared to what he experiences at a restaurant.

What makes a club intriguing, as opposed to a restaurant, is that clubs operate based on their own set of rules. This means that regarding cuisine, anything goes. I am excited about exploring new boundaries—not only with the culinary offerings but also with the staff, ambiance, and overall experience.

“In Hong Kong, achieving success is quite challenging because the people there are honest. If they dislike your food, they won’t return,” Mori observes.

He mentions, ‘There’s an abundance of options available.’ Even though surviving in Hong Kong can be quite challenging, succeeding there drives me to persevere.

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The article was initially published on the South ChinaMorning Post (www.scmp.com), which is known for its coverage of news related toChina andAsia.

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