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Stephanie Lee


For RICE Media unless specified differently

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Liew Tian Heong has been enjoying chicken rice every day for three decades. Many wonder if he ever gets tired of the flavor.

“But how could I possibly be bored?” he exclaims angrily.

The Executive Chef dedicates much of his spare time to exploring various renditions of chicken rice across different locations, ensuring he stays updated with current trends and popular choices. He can also identify the best spots for his preferred versions in Hong Kong.

By now, he finds it impossible to get through a single day without having chicken rice. In his profession of tasting, there is always an ongoing thrill, fresh experiences, and novel discoveries with each session.

I need to rely on my judgment, shaped by experiences, to discern the distinctions through tasting. Above all, you must be passionate about cooking and continuously refining your skills.

At 62 years old, the leader of the Chatterbox kitchen cuts an impressive figure. With keen eyesight and a trenchant wit, he oversees each stage of food preparation to ensure that their hallmark dish—Mandarin-style chicken rice—remains true to Chatterbox’s classic recipe.

This closely protected recipe is solely known by a select few experts. Chef Liew shares that their timeless flavor remains unchanged through the years primarily because they seldom replace the chefs responsible for cooking chicken rice in their kitchen.

In Chef Liew’s kitchen, two experts in chicken rice bring together a collective experience spanning a hundred years. Both chefs are above 70 years old and have maintained Chatterbox’s consistent chicken rice recipe since 1971.

I present this master chef with a contentious query familiar to everyone in Singapore: Which holds greater importance? The chicken or the rice?

He doesn’t hesitate.

Sure thing, the rice for sure.

Winner Winner, Which Chicken Will Be for Tonight’s Meal?

However, Chef Liew must make sure the chicken remains a star attraction. After all, diners pay to enjoy both.
chicken
and rice.

We observe as he deftly slices the chicken into uniform pieces. The cleaver glides effortlessly through the delicate flesh, producing a nearly melodic thudding noise as it meets the wooden surface beneath. With each cut, glistening strands of pale meat rich with juice come into view.

For us, it’s a visual feast. To him, it’s just an ordinary Thursday afternoon.

This outcome has been well-thought-out and considered.

Chatterbox sources premium free-range chickens from Malaysia, aged at least 60 days and weighing approximately 2 kilograms each. This selection process guarantees top-notch chicken rice by optimizing both meat ratio and flavor.

Mature chickens boast richer flavor and denser flesh; however, over time, they may turn out excessively chewy. On the other hand, free-range birds develop juicier meat with superior texture due to higher activity levels and a diverse range of natural foods.

These chickens have reached the optimal age and weight for excellent meat-to-fat balance; however, their true distinction lies in having naturally lower fat content than most breeds.

“Our chickens aren’t particularly fatty, so we skip dipping them in ice water. It’s the ice water that forms the gelatinous layer of solidified fat beneath the chicken skin.” This extra step wasn’t necessary for us.
shaped by techniques used in Cantonese cuisine
As the meal became widely favored during the ’60s.

“Chef Liew further explains, ‘We opt for steaming the chicken instead to retain its original taste.’”

This represents a significant departure from the conventional approach based on the
initial version of the recipe for the dish
, the Wenchang chicken, typically prepared by boiling followed by poaching.

However, those distinctions do not stop there. Initially, the dish originated from Wenchang chicken since it utilized a specific local breed of chicken native to Hainan. Yet, when people from Hainan immigrated to Singapore, they adapted it out of necessity, making efficient use of whatever ingredients were available to them.

Chef Liew elucidated, “They utilized mature chickens and simply cooked everything collectively. It served as sustenance merely to satiate their hunger.”

Nowadays, older chickens are primarily utilized to add more flavor to the soup, continuing an authentic Hainanese tradition that Chef Liew upholds even now.

Wenchang chicken was traditionally served whole, including the bones. The boneless version emerged in the 1970s when an individual known as Sergeant Kiang, whose real name was Mr Kiang Joon Toh and who was well-known among his patrons, was asked to prepare this dish primarily for Chatterbox’s predominantly Western and Japanese clientele.

A legacy was born. Since then, our nation hasn’t turned back.

A Scent Similar to Perfume

However, in chicken rice, the rice element frequently steals the show from the chicken.

I’ve witnessed a scene where a young boy walked in and immediately began consuming just the rice as soon as it was served,” Chef Liew chuckles. “It seemed as though he had completely forgotten about the chicken.

You can find chicken everywhere, but cooking rice properly is the real challenge. Getting the perfect consistency is difficult.

He compares the likeliness of the rice’s fragrance to perfume. In the same way that a loaf of good bread is told apart by its symphony of crackle in
Ratatouille
Chef Liew mentions that excellent chicken rice is distinguished by its fragrance.

When you initially receive your chicken rice, what strikes your sense first isn’t the aroma of the chicken but rather the scent of the seasoned rice.

The key is the incorporation of seasoned chicken oil, which is obtained by slowly melting down chicken fat at a low temperature for approximately one hour. This flavored oil is later stir-fried with seasonings and herbs to enhance the aroma, and subsequently mixed into the rice prior to cooking.

Besides using garlic and ginger for seasoning their rice like the traditional Hainanese method, our updated recipe adds a local twist with the inclusion of lemongrass and pandan leaves.

Chef Liew keeps an eye on two cookers at once—a skillet for sautéing and a pot for boiling. Without a clock in view, he relies on his instincts to determine the perfect moment to introduce each component. He deftly handles a spatula in one hand and a pan handle in the other, showcasing his adept culinary skills.

His expertise is evident in his laid-back demeanor; he chats with us informally while cracking jokes. His actions show no signs of uncertainty as he flips the contents of the pan, something he seems to have mastered over countless repetitions. He might accomplish this task effortlessly even if asleep and upside down.

When asked whether he is disclosing too much about their recipe, Chef Liew handles the query with ease.

“You might be familiar with the components, but you’re not aware of the sequence or the precise quantity for each ingredient. If it were really that simple, someone would have cracked our formula by this point,” he chuckles, continuing to watch over the flames.

Chef Liew encourages us to get a better sniff of his prepared oil, but it’s not needed. The well-known fragrant scent fills up the whole kitchen. The rich and savory hints from the garlic, pandan, and shallots blend nicely with the zesty and earthly aromas of lemongrass and ginger.

This mixture of flavors would subsequently be absorbed into the matured Thai jasmine rice and gently cooked using chicken broth.

After trying it myself, it’s evident that every component shines through in the aroma of the rice. The flavors of ginger and garlic seem almost palpable.

However, the uniqueness of this rice lies in its texture. Despite being soft, the grains remained non-sticky and could be easily scooped up with each bite, reminiscent of handling sand.

Although the chicken stands out splendidly on its own, combining all elements in one spoonful—including the sauces—lends a comforting sensation in my mouth. The warmth and earthiness of the rice anchor the stronger flavors of the savory chicken and the additional tang from the chili.

I could feast on this endlessly. The highlight? Their generous portion sizes.

Kindly Assess This Book Based On Its Front Cover

This ratio certainly isn’t accidental. Chatterbox offers ample servings of chicken, yet every item is precisely measured out and presented on a tray.

Preparing the food is only part of the process. The evolution of plating techniques, sauce selection, and presentation has transformed this classic dish into the well-known chicken rice we enjoy today.

For instance, Chatterbox’s signature chicken rice comes with the same trio of sauces—chilli, ginger, and dark soy sauce—which reflects local preferences and available ingredients.

This differs significantly from the Wenchang version, which,
based on what food blogger Tony Boey shared
It is commonly served with a dipping sauce prepared from “chopped garlic, parsley (coriander), and sugar mixed with chicken broth, clarified chicken fat, and an optional addition of light soy sauce.” After blending all these ingredients, calamansi juice is incorporated into the mixture.

Certainly, there wasn’t much emphasis on fancy presentations at that time. When Chatterbox led the way in serving genuine hawker cuisine within the elegance of a 5-star hotel, they were the first to propose placing all items on a single tray for convenience.

Although it was initially designed for convenient transportation, it is commonly thought to have played a role in transforming chicken rice from a communal dish into an individual serving. Today, its presentation is a crucial aspect of Chatterbox’s hallmark offering.

The presentation merely represents a small aspect of its distinctive dining concept. Chatterbox stands out as one of the rare spots where customers won’t hesitate to enjoy a glass of wine alongside their chicken rice. Although this combination might seem unusual, an accompanying light red or white can complement or contrast with the dish’s robust and savory notes effectively.

As we take photos of the finished dish, Chef Liew informs us that there is a correct orientation. The intricate line art of a flower on the paper placemat in the tray aligns with the diner’s right side. In the tray, the chicken is neatly placed in traditional china.

Before preparing to serve, he cleans the edges to remove any droplets and adjusts the placement of the tomatoes and cucumbers to make sure everything is perfectly positioned. It’s only after these steps that he confidently declares, “Alright, you can proceed.”

Maintaining this rigorous standard is essential. Chef Liew guarantees that the legacy of chicken rice, including both its recipe and presentation, will remain intact even at their international outlets as long as he remains involved.

“Despite my absence, I must ensure that everything continues to be carried out as per protocol,” he states firmly.

The presentation guidelines for the kitchens managed by Chef Liew in Hong Kong and Japan remain consistent with those in Singapore. They pay close attention to details, even down to using the exact same chinaware as in the Singapore location, ensuring everything mirrors what comes out of the local kitchen.

I ask Chef Liew why this consistency is so important. He simply says that it represents the restaurant’s stand for authenticity—that despite the refurbishments and constant evolution as a brand, the taste they offer remains the familiar, comforting flavour that regulars love.

A Familiar Taste

Chef Liew doesn’t aim to win over everybody, which might be unexpected. However, this is due to his understanding that each person has their own complex, individual tastes when it comes to chicken rice. His objective is simply to keep preparing food the way Chatterbox does it—just as he has been doing for the last thirty years—for those who appreciate it just the way it is.

“A number of patrons visit us four times each week. Should they enjoy their experience, they’ll continue returning without feeling uninterested.”

Just like him.

Chef Liew’s excitement when talking about his profession indicates that his zeal has not diminished in the least. With such extensive experience within the company, he feels fortunate to work alongside individuals who genuinely enjoy their jobs. He takes pride in both his own achievements and those of past members of Chatterbox who have contributed significantly to the legacy and reputation of Hainanese Chicken Rice in Singapore.

Even though the recipe for chicken rice has evolved and adjusted through the decades, its significance remains constant for us Singaporeans. Regardless of how it appears on the plate, this meal never fails to evoke a sense of pride when we spot ‘Singapore Chicken Rice’ on a menu abroad.

It’s comforting fare that we’ve enjoyed from our younger days and will keep savoring for years to come. After all, how could a food court function properly without at least one chicken rice stall? Chef Liew finds great satisfaction knowing that his dishes provide us with such pleasure.

“Chicken rice stands out because it has been a part of our upbringing,” he remarks.

When they were young, fathers used to take their sons for chicken rice at the hawker center. Nowadays, it’s the sons who bring their fathers and even grandfathers there for some chicken rice.

This tale was delivered to you by
OUE Restaurants
.

Combining coziness with contemporary style, Chatterbox offers an ideal setting for various occasions spanning multiple age groups, whether it’s business dining or birthday parties—plus, it’s like having a hawkers centre but with air conditioning.

Frequently, Chatterbox becomes fully booked during busy times, hence to sidestep disappointment, it’s advisable to reserve your spot ahead of time.
here
.

Chatterbox
Hilton Singapore Orchard

333 Orchard Road, #05-03

Singapore 238867

T: +65 6831 6291

E: chatterbox@ouerestaurants.com

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A Chef’s Three-Decade Romance with Chicken Rice
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