• 
  During her family trip to Vietnam, Fiona Hardcastle visits both Hanoi and Phu Quoc.
  
• 
  EXPLORE FURTHER: A travel authority uncovers the globe’s top spots for independent travelers
  

The open-top Jeep – featuring an inactive RPG secured to the hood – is awaiting us outside the reception area.

Despite looming threateningly above the hotel’s collection of golf carts, the doormen at the Intercontinental Westlake greet us with smiles and assist us into the vehicle as if it were a luxurious limo.

Fifty years under Communist leadership might bring a nation down, yet the Vietnamese people remain as unstoppable as they are resourceful.

Thus, just hours following our landing in its capital city, here we are all set to embark on a side-street exploration of Hanoi, prepared inside a de-militarized former Soviet behemoth.

Our climate has two variations,” explains our guide, handing out hats to shield us from the intense sunlight. “It’s hot and then there’s even hotter.

He possesses two kinds of hats: a Vietcong pith helmet or a conical bamboo one. Whether they’re playing fighters or farmers, I inquire with the children as the try-on session starts.

Just because these aspects aren’t mutually exclusive doesn’t mean they can’t coexist. Given that Vietnam has successfully fended off foreign invaders for nearly two millennia while integrating high-quality elements of their adversaries’ cuisines into local dishes, the nation excels at creating fusion foods.

Moreover, due to the increased prominence of these dishes on social media, my trio claims they can distinguish their bun cha (meatballs) from their bot chien (rice cakes) long before we dive into the crowd.

First stop, the Hidden Gem cafe, so well hidden down an alleyway you could miss it altogether.

Largely composed of items made from recycled materials—three chaotic floors filled with tables and chairs that previously belonged to motorcycles and machines—it stands in stark contrast to the polished aesthetic of Gail’s place. I am concerned that my daughters might not appreciate the charm due to all the wear and tear.

Rose, who is 18 years old, appears uncertain as we sit on stools crafted from used tires, waiting for our first taste of banh mi. I’ve been told wonderful stories about this famous Vietnamese sandwich—a French-style baguette filled with pâté, pickled veggies, pork, and chicken—but instead of keeping quiet, I mistakenly share my expectations on TikTok.

The sandwiches have been served, and the skeptics are now quieted. Feeling encouraged, Evie, who is 16 years old, decides to order an egg coffee. My spouse and I look at each other with relief. This expedition further eastward appears to be off to a good beginning.

During our return to training exercises, signs of past conflicts are abundant around us. My spouse, who was convinced not to turn the pre-trip evening into a screening of “The Deer Hunter,” enthusiastically indicates a wrecked B-52 bomber with its damaged body protruding from a lake. Twelve-year-old Felix looks thrilled.

We navigate through a flurry of motorcycles to get a selfie on Long Bien Bridge, which has been destroyed multiple times only to be reconstructed again, serving as a emblem of a nation that pardons but always remembers. Despite this, Hanoi remains as charming as it is resilient, with an unmissable vitality permeating every corner.

In just a few minutes of reaching the Old Quarter, which consists of 36 alleys each named for their specific goods, the kids are set free with some money in hand.

I let Rose select lengths of satin as she describes her idea for a prom dress to a tailor in Silk Street, while I explore nearby Silver Street looking for mementos.

Even though there isn’t an actual Shellac Street, Evie comes back with two pairs of gel nails, telling me they set her back only a quarter of what similar services would cost where I’m from.

Always eager to take advantage of an opportunity, Felix effortlessly convinces his father to hand over some money, then goes back to the Jeep with a vibrant yellow toy goose that reaches up to his midsection.

Following a rapid search on Google using the Vietnamese term for the creature, the recently named Long Nong becomes part of the gathering as we head towards our last destination: Train Street.

After being temporarily closed due to safety issues in 2019, this beloved railway featured prominently on Instagram has now been completely restored. It once again attracts visitors twice daily as they gather to see an express train pass through a tight bypass. Local residents living near the tracks must relocate their outdoor items before the train approaches because of how close the path is.

Ingeniously, a cluster of cafes – some in people’s living rooms – have cropped up providing ice cold beers and seating. We find a prime spot next to an electric fan and cheer as the 3pm to Ho Chi Minh City hurtles past.

Returning to the cool ambiance of the InterContinental Westlake, we were welcomed by their esteemed staff under a grand 10-meter chandelier. They reminded us that shortly, cocktails would be available at the Sunset Bar—a round haven situated on a petite island reachable via several pathways.

It might not come as a shock that a hotel shaped like an open lotus flower exudes such tranquility. However, thanks to its spacious areas and large family accommodations offering panoramic vistas of both the lake and the nation’s most ancient pagoda, one would hardly guess that bustling activity was merely a short ten-minute drive away.

It’s time for a brief dip before I see the tree-lined pool with stylish double loungers, and understand that getting us away from here might be difficult even as evening approaches. To be honest, leaving Hanoi altogether will pose quite a challenge; we’re all captivated by this vibrant city where history seamlessly melds with the future.

The following destination—the island of Phu Quoc located at the southernmost part of the nation—presents a stark contrast.

Valued for its pristine white sand beaches and lush tropical jungles, this destination has quickly moved up from being a quiet, lesser-known spot to becoming one of those must-visit places, leading to an increase in construction activities. However, among all these projects—there stands out the distinctive Regent Phu Quoc.

Situated with a view of the Gulf of Thailand and nestled on pristine white beaches, the Regent caters to those who appreciate luxurious living.

Although our massive villa—one out of 63 that surround two lagoons, with an equal amount scattered throughout the resort—has me grabbing for the scent from the Aqua di Parma room diffuser just to cope, it integrates seamlessly into the garden scenery as though it were naturally part of it. Such is discreet affluence.

It’s time to step up our style as I lay out my version of the finest attire and oversee everyone preparing for dinner. This isn’t easy though, with constant stops to marvel at the decorations and furnishings.

The primary bathroom has inspired me to rethink our own back home, whereas the well-equipped kitchen, complete with access to a private chef, is having a comparable effect on my spouse.

However, it’s when you catch the kids speaking positively not only about the perpetually refilled selection of handcrafted chips and chocolates but also the abstract artworks scattered throughout that you realize you’re not in Kansas anymore.

The intensity grows as you step out and notice that everyone else is impeccably dressed—even elegant gowns next to the swimming pool.

Despite its magnificence, the Regent remains unpretentious. The staff members are welcoming, considerate, and seem almost clairvoyant in their attentiveness. On the very first day, when servers notice that Rose enjoys having two bowls of sticky rice with each meal, they promptly provide her with an additional pair of bowls from then onwards, without her needing to request them.

The devil is in the details – with numerous influences at work here.

The canopies hovering above the initial swimming pool serve as a thoughtful gesture for Far Eastern visitors who appreciate shade and avoid sunbathing. Meanwhile, the Speakeasy bar, with its stunning jade-green interior revealed via a concealed entrance, caters to American acquaintances.

However, it’s the Bovi motif—a ladder-like design influenced by the timber trusses used in traditional Vietnamese houses—that we immediately adore as it meanders throughout the resort.

We get so engrossed in choosing as we settle into our chairs for dinner at Rice Market, the main eating zone, that it’s challenging to look away long enough to peruse the menu.

Whenever we explore it, we discover that it’s incredibly vast, allowing even my eclectic clan—comprising two vegetarians, one finicky eater, a staunch carnivore, and a shellfish enthusiast—to enjoy meals without repetition for an entire week.

Even though, as Felix mentions, after tasting the wok-fired Wagyu beef, what reason would there be to opt for something different?

Once you have experienced the intriguing juxtapositions of Vietnam, you might just find yourself feeling the same way.

Rooms at the
Regent Phu Quoc
Starting from £311 per night, inclusive of breakfast, rates at the InterContinental Hanoi Westlake are offered as follows:
IHG Hotel
Starting at £106 for a Classic city view room, available on a bed-and-breakfast exclusion basis.

Hanoi Backstreet Tours


provide tours of the capital starting at £27. Fiona and her family traveled with
Cathay Pacific
.

Read more