Sweden’s recycling centers are brimming with clothing following this year’s EU-wide prohibition on discarding textiles, causing local authorities to be keen for major fast-fashion companies to assume accountability.
“It’s an enormous volume arriving every day. It has been chaotic; there’s a significant surge,” stated Brian Kelly, the secretary-general of the Artikel2 charity store in Stockholm, where lines of overflowing bins were brimming with cast-off clothing.
Starting from the beginning of this year, EU nations are required to implement distinct textile recycling procedures, in addition to their current systems for handling glass, paper, and food waste.
The objective is to encourage circular waste management practices, ensuring that textiles are sorted for reuse or recycling when they aren’t excessively worn.
“There was a 60 percent rise in textiles collected during January and February of this year when compared to the corresponding months last year,” stated Karin Sundin, who specializes in textile waste at Stockholm Vatten och Avfall, which handles water supply and waste management for the city of Stockholm.
After sorting the textiles, approximately 60 to 70 percent is set aside for reuse, whereas 20 to 30 percent is allocated for recycling into stuffing, insulation, or composite materials.
Approximately seven to ten percent is utilized as an energy source, as stated by the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency.
This represents a significant advancement compared to the period prior to the new legislation, say specialists, highlighting that previously disposed-of garments were routinely burned.
Large volumes
Nevertheless, due to insufficient infrastructure in Sweden, second-hand clothing items are mainly shipped overseas, predominantly to Lithuania, where these garments undergo sorting, reuse, or incineration for power generation.
“As opposed to large sorting facilities found in Eastern Europe, we lack similar infrastructure capable of assigning value to all materials efficiently,” clarified Sundin.
“The reason is that it involves a lot of labor (and) comes at a high cost,” she explained while giving AFP a tour of the Ostberga recycling center in Southern Stockholm.
Each year, Swedes discard approximately 90,000 tons of textile materials, which equates to about 10 kilograms (22 pounds) per individual, as reported by the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation.
According to the 2022 statistics, the EU average was 19 kilograms, an increase from 17 in 2019, as per data revealed by the European Environment Agency.
The fashion sector likewise contributes to environmental pollution.
According to Yvonne Augustsson, an adviser at the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency, producing a T-shirt weighing 135 grams (4.76 ounces) requires approximately 2,500 liters (660 gallons) of water and about one kilogram (2.2 pounds) of chemicals.
“This indicates greenhouse gas emissions ranging from approximately two to five kilograms,” she explained.
“In Sweden, a piece of clothing is typically worn around 30 times. Doubling this usage to approximately 60 times — as appears sensible — would cut the environmental impact in half,” she explained.
In Sweden, textile recycling is managed by local municipalities, which have found themselves overwhelmed with the volume of materials they receive following the implementation of the updated regulations.
In the thinly inhabited northern region, certain towns like Kiruna still burn textiles since these items find no buyers.
Rapid-fashion behemoths like H&M and Zara are anticipated to ultimately contribute to managing the waste they help create, with discussions currently underway at the European level to establish their accountability.
As per an initial accord struck by European Union countries in February, major apparel companies will bear responsibility for their products’ entire lifecycle. They must cover costs related to collecting, sorting, reusing, and recycling these items once sold.
Change of attitude
The concept aims to motivate fast-fashion businesses to create “garments built for greater longevity,” according to Augustsson.
The Swedish company H&M expressed to AFP their approval of the steps being taken in that direction.
Consumers must also alter their way of thinking.
According to Beatrice Rindevall, who leads the Swedish Society for the Conservation of Nature and frequently arranges clothing swap events, each individual should “purchase no more than five new pieces of attire annually.”
On a bright spring day in the city of Linköping, a garment swap at a university campus showcased an array of items ranging from a vibrant fuchsia coat adorned with feathery cuffs to worn-out denim trousers, various satchels, and zebra-striped tops.
“Individuals can donate clothing items that are still in good shape but no longer use them, and as an alternative, receive something different,” explained volunteer Eva Vollmer.
Our aim is to develop solutions that truly provide alternatives for individuals.
