Following stints at acclaimed Michelin-starred eateries in Hong Kong such as Amber and Mono, this up-and-coming chef is now forging his distinctive culinary path.
In a tranquil commercial complex on the ground floor in Hong Kong’s Tsim Sha Tsui district, 29-year-old Tony Mok appears completely comfortable within the confines of his compact yet elegant eatery called Path.
Featuring only eight stools for guests, who enjoy a close-up look at the culinary action, this compact area can sometimes resemble a cozy comedy show setting. Mok entertains everyone by telling jokes and interacting with the diners.
However, there are also moments of calm. When preparing a lesson,
dan dan
noodles
, his movements and look of concentration evoke the dedication of a seasoned professional.
itamae
, or sushi chef.
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What I am currently doing is utilizing my hands to examine the noodles.
their flexibility and the quantity of residual starch
He clarifies, scooping up fistfuls of cold, slender wheat noodles from a metal bowl and meticulously rolling them into neat parcels.
Each set is arranged in a bowl atop a cashew and crab sauce infused with dashi, designed to emulate the customary nuttiness.
dan dan
flavour profiles.
Shreds of flower crab meat are delicately layered onto the nest-like noodles, succeeded by a sprinkle of homemade
typhoon shelter seasoning
– A must-have for Cantonese cuisine – featuring crispy bread crumbs, garlic, and chili.
This sophisticated dish exemplifies Mok’s whimsical take on gourmet cooking. Similar to several others at Path, it pulses with the vibrant tastes of Cantonese fare.
This becomes clear right at the start of the meal, as we encounter appetizers that pay tribute to Mok’s flavor memories.
A croustade crafted from Nordic beer batter, paired with a mix of fresh pineapple and young ginger, pays homage to a traditional cold dish from a Hong Kong village. Additionally, there’s a choux pastry stuffed with the savory flavors of salted egg and Comté cheese.
A different serving of steamed egg white paired with sweet, succulent clams and sea urchin contains a surprising component, as Mok discloses—it’s nori oil made from crushing Thailand’s Big Sheet seaweed.
seaweed
, a beloved treat from his younger days.
He confesses, ‘I’ve got plenty of wacky notions. You can’t tell if they’ll succeed, but they serve as an initial step towards crafting a novel recipe.’
For Mok, food is akin to his mother tongue, having been raised in a household dominated by the culinary world of restaurants. His dad, referred to within Hong Kong’s Yuen Long village circles as Cheong Gor or “Uncle Cheong,” served as a Chinese cuisine chef in Dutch eateries and remained his go-to source whenever he had questions about cooking techniques.
Mok’s mother previously had a job at Oriental City Amsterdam, which serves as the backdrop for an iconic fight scene in the Hong Kong movie.
Young and Dangerous 3
.
“My dad has always been in [food and beverage],” says Mok. “He always cooked. He’d go to a restaurant, come home and try to replicate the flavours. He never worked in Hong Kong, but the dishes he made at home were like those at the restaurant [in Amsterdam].
When I was younger, I believed that all homemade dishes were similar to my father’s specialties: goose webs and abalones, authentic.
sweet and sour pork
prepared in the classic manner using hawthorn berries and then deep-fried until every bite is delightfully crisp, with the perfect amount of sauce coating each piece.
I assumed all families enjoyed meals like these. It wasn’t until I dined at my buddies’ places that I understood how fortunate I truly was.
His parents never pushed him to emulate his father—yet they didn’t compel him to pursue medicine or law either.
During my youth, nobody anticipated that for me. I had the freedom to explore various subjects. Some years I would practice Taekwondo, others times I’d pick up playing the piano. They supported whatever interested me.
He pursued studies in information engineering in Taiwan and considered potentially joining the IT sector post-graduation. Later, during a summer vacation in Hong Kong, Mok—who has always been quite humorous—replied jokingly to a friend’s invitation for assistance with managing the dining area of his restaurant.
He remembers saying, ‘I’m not interested in that,’ but added, ‘if you can get me a chef role, I would be willing to join,'” she recounts. “His response was affirmative, and surprisingly, the chef mentioned that they could begin as early as 6 am the following day.
Mok found himself employed at an informal eatery in Tsim Sha Tsui during his summer breaks, where he served dishes such as burgers and salads over two seasons.
Upon finishing his studies, he opted against going for a white-collar position and instead aspired to become a chef.
My parents believed I shouldn’t pursue becoming a Chinese cuisine chef. My dad, who used to be one himself, felt it was far too challenging. He warned me, “Should you decide to become a Chinese chef, consider this as grounds for eviction; you won’t be welcome under our roof anymore.” So, I’d have to fend for myself elsewhere.
So I told my dad, ‘I’m going to train as a Western cuisine chef,’ ” Mok recounts with a laugh. His father responded, “‘Alright then.’
Away he went, joining a cooking institute and subsequently sending out resumes to high-end dining establishments across Hong Kong. He finally secured his initial stint at
Richard Ekkebus’
Amber at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental.
The restaurant operated with remarkable speed and precision. With each service accommodating around 60 to 70 guests, we served approximately 140 diners daily. Every diner would enjoy ten courses, resulting in a total of 1,400 plates coming out of our single kitchen every day. It’s important to know that despite the high volume, everything needed to be executed swiftly yet maintain a standard worthy of two Michelin stars.
He further developed his abilities and expanded his creativity at Mono, collaborating there.
Venezuelan chef Ricardo Chaneton
, whom he acknowledges as his mentor.
He provided me with considerable liberty to explore different ideas,” Mok states. “There was encouragement for continuous learning. Together, we developed numerous recipes. He placed great faith in my dish creations. Despite entrusting us with significant responsibilities, he offered ample chances to excel.
Every chef experiences stress. A significant amount of this comes from me personally. In the establishments where I previously cooked, we maintained extremely high standards, making pressure inevitable. However, such tension didn’t stem from my home life; rather, it originated within me and the demanding settings in which I operated.
While working in high-end eateries, Mok found himself putting in 14 to 15-hour shifts along with nearly three hours of travel time each day. He remarked, “Often, the duration I spent commuting was longer than my sleep duration back home.”
However, his family remained consistently supportive, particularly his father, even though he showed it in his unique manner.
Mok mentions, ‘He’s from an older parenting generation,’ but adds that this person consistently ensured there was a midnight snack ready for him after his work ended. He would always phone ahead just to inform Mok that he had prepared a serving.
stir-fried beef noodles
, prepared to stir-fry as soon as I arrived home. No matter if it was midnight, 1 am, or even 2 am—he’d still be waiting.
“During this
siu yeh
During our midnight snacks, we’d catch up. Otherwise, he seldom saw me since I usually left very early in the morning before he woke up, and when I returned, he was asleep. These brief moments were all we had together. Despite being exhausted, we’d pop open a beer and enjoy this precious time as father and son.
He might not have received much guidance, yet he found joy in listening to tales from my job and encounters with clients. Similarly, I wasn’t keen on adding to their worries; however, they likely understood the strain of witnessing me leave for work at dawn and return well after dusk. Thus, whenever possible, they made sure to lend a hand during my free time, offering respite when needed.
It happened only when I was at the temporary setup.
Test Kitchen
In Shek Tong Tsui, located on Hong Kong Island, Mok managed to introduce his distinctive culinary approach to a broader audience. This marked the first occasion for his family to sample the restaurant-quality meals he prepared.
“He recounts how his father consumed so many drinks that evening, becoming quite intoxicated and beginning to embrace all of his friends while tearfully expressing concern over him working excessively hard,” he shares with a smile recalling the incident. “His mother mentioned that throughout their marriage, she had witnessed his father shed tears just thrice before – this made it the fourth time. His father repeatedly hugged his friends, grateful for their support of him,” he adds.
Currently, at Path, Mok has developed his distinct culinary voice. Though he might not have become the “Chinese chef” his father cautioned him about, he is reshaping this identity by uniquely expressing the tastes of his childhood. In doing so, he’s establishing a fresh interpretation within the genre.
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The article initially appeared on the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com), which serves as the premier source for news coverage of China and Asia.
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