If you had to pick one dish that epitomizes Filipinos, which would it be? And from which part of the country does it come? It’s important to remember that the Philippines extends far beyond just its bustling capital. As we move away towards more isolated regions, their cuisines often remain lesser-known treasures. In his quest to highlight these hidden culinary gems, Chef Miguel Cabel Moreno aims particularly at showcasing the flavors of Mindanao.
“Born in Jolo, Sulu, and raised in Zamboanga City, I’ve always had great pride in the local dishes from my homeland. With this in mind, I decided to open a restaurant in Metro Manila aimed at showcasing these culinary delights and presenting them to individuals who may not have visited those regions before,” states Moreno.
Palm Grill can be found at the intersection of Tomas Morato and Scout Castor in Quezon City.
Driven by this purpose, he established Palm Grill, the sole restaurant of its scale in Metro Manila specializing in genuine southern Mindanao cuisine (particularly dishes originating from the Zambasulti area encompassing Zamboanga, Basilan, Sulu, and Tawi-Tawi), situated at the intersection of Tomas Morato and Scout Castor streets since 2017. For years, the farthest reaches of the Philippine archipelago have grappled with unfavorable perceptions, prompting numerous travel warnings for potential tourists. However, conditions have significantly enhanced, leading to initiatives like DOT Secretary Christina Frasco endorsing Sulu as an upcoming top tourist attraction within the country.
Kaliya Puso (banana heart)
The stereotypes linked to the area have led to reluctance among visitors to sample the local dishes. “Even after eight years, I must admit it remains challenging, though somewhat easier than during my initial days,” Moreno elaborates further. He adds, “Regional cuisines, particularly those originating from where I’m from, face hurdles beyond just limited exploration caused by historical safety issues; they remain unfamiliar territory for most folks.” Moreno goes on, “Struggling constantly to present an uncharted culinary experience persists. Many individuals enter our establishment, glance over the menu, and upon receiving explanations about our offerings, decide to leave merely because these foods are outside their comfort zone of familiarity.”
Sambal Pampano
Preserving Pamapa
The restaurant boasts a comprehensive menu that highlights an essential regional spice blend known as pamapa. This aromatic mixture includes ingredients like ginger, turmeric, galangal, and lemongrass, complemented by an unusual component: charred coconut flesh.
People seldom realize that the Tausug tribe from the Sulu Archipelago is the sole community in the Philippines that includes charred coconut flesh in their dishes. This distinctive culinary technique has roots dating back to pre-colonial times—long before Spanish colonization began in the 16th century,” notes Moreno. “At this period, the Sultanate of Sulu thrived alongside nations such as Sabah in Malaysia, Indonesia, Brunei, among others. Back then, they enjoyed peaceful relations marked by trade involving spices and fabrics along with intermarriages, which laid down the foundation for what would become their distinct cuisine.
Tiyula Itum, a thick beef soup darkened using burnt coconut (pamapa).
Because the Tausug tribe successfully fended off numerous Spanish invasions, they managed to maintain their traditional cooking techniques like the pamapa. This ingredient forms the foundation for various dishes including pyanggang manok (grilled chicken coated with a flavorful burnt coconut sauce imparting an intense umami flavor), and tiyula itum (beef soup that turns dark due to the use of charred coconut from the pamapa). Moreno guards the formula for his pamapa closely, entrusting only the kitchen back home in Zamboanga City to prepare it. He explains, “To ensure authenticity and support local farmers near us, we get this sourced externally. Making pamapa requires significant effort; it consumes an entire day.”
Choosing the appropriate mature coconuts is crucial for achieving the desired taste in the pamapa. Roasting the coconuts requires approximately three hours, with careful monitoring to maintain a specific temperature throughout. These precise steps are what Moreno adheres to in order to prepare truly genuine cuisine.
The Chicken Pianggang gains a strong umami flavor from the burnt coconut sauce (pamapa).
One item featured on their menu is the beef satti, which consists of a scalding-hot serving of gummy broth topped with skewered grilled beef. Concealed within this dense soup are rice dumplings. The beef satti serves as a common morning meal due to its richly satisfying taste—sweet yet tangy—and hearty nature. “About half a year ago,” Moreno starts recounting an anecdote, “a household arrived accompanied by their matriarch for her 68th birthday celebration. This lady requested the beef satti, and upon tasting it, tears welled up in her eyes. Seriously. She mentioned having once been an educator stationed in Sulu; however, since visiting there around 1970, she hasn’t returned.”
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Beef Satti
Heritage on a Plate
Food possesses the ability to take us back in time, to specific locations, or to precise memories. He states, “What matters most to me is simply feeling content. While earning substantial wealth was not my primary reason for starting this venture, financial stability remains crucial for sustaining our operations. However, it isn’t my foremost objective. My main aim is truly about finding ways to alter perceptions and narratives surrounding issues. I aspire to encourage greater appreciation for Mindanao,” he explains.
Meals have the ability to unite individuals as well. The dulang is a distinctive serving dish featuring a selection of variousmenu items meant for sharing. It’s ideal when a small gathering wishes to taste multiple dishes collectively.
The cozy and welcoming ambiance inside Palm Grill.
Filipino cuisine has always been close to my heart, and I see myself as a contemporary knight,” Moreno states. “My skirmishes involve shifting people’s viewpoints and stories via gastronomy. Through food, we can gain deeper insights into our heritage and traditions.
If one looks for the oldest and genuine Filipino cuisine, might it be the fare from the Tausug people according to Moreno? He asserts, “This is something we can genuinely take pride in since it is distinctly our own.”
