Ho Chi Minh City’s Old Quarter is a bustling hub of traffic, commerce, and tourism. Visitors opt to lodge in this historical area of Vietnam’s main city to immerse themselves in its distinctive mix of weaving motorcycles, street eateries, and an overwhelming soundscape.
However, despite the congested roads being a defining feature of the Old Quarter—where hotels frequently provide guests with tips for navigating across—the growing number of tourists is putting more pressure on the limited space within its slender lanes.
Up until recently, tour buses used to navigate through the narrow paths to pick up tourists from their hotel accommodations, leading to significant traffic congestion. This practice has since been prohibited; however, taxis and Grab (the Southeast Asian equivalent of Uber) vehicles continue to congest the roads.
For those visitors who prefer to experience the excitement intermittently, the adjacent French Quarter serves as an excellent location. Featuring spacious avenues, a serene lake, and luxurious accommodations, it offers some respite while still being within easy reach of the Old Quarter.
It offers an intriguing look at the French influences introduced through colonialism, which were eventually blended with Hanoi’s culture to create something distinctively new.
Relax by Hanoi’s Hoàn Kiếm Lake
Inescapable are the hum of scooters and the symphony of horns in Hanoi; however, Hồ Gươm Lake at the outskirts of the French Quarter offers a semblance of respite. Strolling beside the water’s edge, one can gaze out over the verdant expanse.
water
towards the moss-covered Turtle Tower – where reptiles formerly resided in the nearby waters – located on an island at the center.
At the northern end stands Ngoc Son Temple. This temple, dedicated to writing, scholarship, and literary pursuits, serves as an important site of veneration for students gearing up for their examinations. A vibrant red bridge connects to this small sanctuary.
island
where the noise of the traffic turns into a faint murmur within the temple boundaries.
Sitting in the leafy courtyard surrounded by trees, one can enjoy observing a leisurely strolling cat and occasionally hear snippets of popular tunes floating over from Zumba sessions happening along the lakeside. Rising early allows you to partake in the invigorating morning exercises alongside Hanoi’s dynamic locals.
Treat yourself to egg coffee where it originated.
Vietnam has transformed coffee into a distinctively unique beverage. Each significant city boasts its own special blend. In Ho Chi Minh City, you’ll find coconut-infused coffee, whereas in Hue, it comes crowned with savory cream. In Hanoi, due to the scarcity of milk and cream during the French occupation in the 1940s, a creative barista devised an egg coffee recipe.
coffee
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Nguyen Van Giang was employed at the bar of the Grand Metropole Hotel, an establishment that remains operational and now operates under the Sofotel banner. Since its inauguration in 1901—one year prior to Hanoi being designated as the capital of French Indochina—the hotel has been frequented by colonizers and international visitors alike. Facing a shortage of milk for his patrons, Nguyen incorporated beaten egg yolks mixed with honey and sugar into the coffee and presented it above a container filled with warm water.
Stop by the Metropole’s Le Club Bar today to discover the birthplace of egg coffee. This bright, plant-filled conservatory offers a serene retreat and serves classic French dishes such as Niçoise salad, onion soup, and croque monsieur.
Alternatively, you could go to either of the two.
coffee joints
That cafe founded by Nguyen in the city is now managed by his heirs. Located at the northern edge of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, you can visit Café Dinh. Ascend to the second level and enjoy your sugary Hanoi coffee alongside local artists and authors.
Where to Stay in the French Quarter at Capella Hanoi
The city’s
luxury hotel
A quarter can be discovered in the areas surrounding Hanoi’s ornate Opera House, a dome-topped, pastel-colored structure from 1901.
Capella Hanoi
Is a luxurious, whimsical reinterpretation of a meeting place where one could imagine legendary figures from the world of opera—its premier vocalists and maestros—converging following their last performance.
Created by renowned architect Bill Bensley, this establishment blends 1920s Art Deco style from Paris with Vietnamese cultural elements in an extravagant mix. Bensely dedicated several years amassing collectibles such as theater programs, musical instruments, gloves, and opera lessons to adorn the space.
hotel
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The restaurant on the ground floor, which has received a Michelin recommendation, goes by the name Backstage. Its luxurious red velvet seats, full-length curtains, and sparkling outfits hung up on the walls vividly capture the essence of backstage activity.
Every level focuses on a distinct element of opera—drama, music, and celebrities. The design complements these elements with specific features such as a small stage adorned with sequined outfits on the drama section; an actor’s hallway featuring a powdering station; and on the music tier, musical instruments combined with artwork inspired by Picasso’s style.
Every one of the 47 chambers boasts a distinct theme, each dedicated to either a musician, an actor/actress, a composer, or an opera. Inside these spaces, you’ll find elements celebrating Vietnamese craftsmanship—such as intricately embroidered silk cushions, pendant lights resembling traditional lanterns adorned with hanging pom-poms, and seats made from dark bamboo.
The hotel partners with local talents for experiences such as ceramic making sessions with inhabitants from Bat Trang Ceramic Village and lacquer art lessons led by Tran Anh Tuan, who is a distinguished instructor at Hanoi University of Industrial Fine Arts.
Hanoi’s cuisine is renowned, earning it the title of top culinary destination from the World Culinary Awards in 2024. Visitors staying at Backstage can enjoy meals prepared according to exclusive recipes by Madame Anh Tuyet, who appeared on chef Anthony Bourdain’s show “No Reservations.” Her version of pho – a flavorful soup featuring beef brisket – makes for quite a robust start to the day.
Return to the past at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel.
Staying at the
Sofitel Legend Metropole
The place where egg coffee originated offers the nearest experience to traveling back in time to Hanoi during its French colonial period—from the staff’s ‘bonjour’ greetings to the presence of in-house boutiques like Hermes and Chopard.
The Heritage Wing traces back to 1901, whereas the Opera Wing was added in 1996. Within the older section, an exhibit newly put up outlines the chronological journey of the facility.
hotel
From its inauguration through its involvement in two conflicts up until the rebuilding process in 1992, it has captivated visitors with an insight into the rich tapestry of history housed within its walls.
In 1946, ex-president Ho Chi Minh convened with General Etienne Valuie, who was the commanding officer of Indo-China, along with Nguyen Hai Than, the leader of Vietnam’s Quamingtang, at the hotel as part of discussions for Vietnamese autonomy.
During the American assault, all male and female hotel employees underwent military training, and the sidewalk area at the entrance—where visitors used to enjoy their coffee—was excavated to create bomb shelters that are now open for guided tours. The album “Where Are You Now, My Son?” by singer Joan Baez was influenced by her stay in one of these bunkers during an 11-day period at the hotel.
Since guests no longer have to concern themselves with seeking protection from air raids, they can ample time to relish the hotel’s comprehensive amenities. Within the main atrium, you will find a delightful space for relaxation and enjoyment.
outdoor pool
With sun loungers available. In the mornings, you can go up to Le Balcon for yoga or tai chi sessions.
And once you’re prepared to leave the hotel and dive into the bustling energy of Hanoi, simply recall to say ‘au revoir’ to the doorman.
