The ‘boom boom’ fashion trend featured dazzling new launches from Rolex and Patek Philippe, with Cartier revisiting their iconic panther motif. Meanwhile, Chanel highlighted Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s fondness for braiding.
Blame the
mob wife trend
, or maybe the transition from minimalism toward what’s been dubbed ‘boom boom’ fashion – a term introduced by trend forecaster Sean Monahan earlier this year to describe the resurgence of daring and luxurious styles. Regardless, gold watches have returned. After all, a gold watch – an enduring emblem for those who’ve achieved success – never entirely faded out of style.
It’s just that at
This year’s Watches and Wonders event
– The yearly assembly of the watchmaking sector in Geneva took place during the opening week of April this year – golden timepieces were spotted frequently and had a significant influence.
Among the array of sparkling watches—from the recently introduced trapezoid-shaped Piaget Sixtième to a rose gold version of Patek Philippe’s highly talked-about new Cubitus and Rolex’s 1908 paired with an 18k gold Settimo bracelet—the standout releases this year featured innovative, artistic approaches to displaying time.
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Consider the Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas. This groundbreaking “secret watch,” featuring a tilted dial, draws its concept from a padlock.
cadenas
Is French for “padlock” and was first introduced in 1935. A fresh version crafted from yellow gold and adorned with sparkling diamonds and vibrant sapphires demonstrates that a robust design can undergo numerous transformations without sacrificing its core identity or allure. It appears just as contemporary today.
This statement can also apply to Bulgari’s fresh interpretation of their iconic motif, the snake – a timeless representation of rejuvenation and regeneration. The Serpenti Aeterna abandons the adaptable tubogas bracelet it was known for, opting instead for a robust, geometric cuff design. This marks a significant evolution for the serpent theme during what is considered a highly propitious year within the Chinese zodiac.
The world of animals is always close to the hearts of Cartier’s design team, particularly their most cherished creature –
the panther
After all, the panther made its debut on a Cartier watch in 1914, featuring diamonds and onyx detailing that echoed the texture of the large feline’s coat. The renowned Cartier designer Jeanne Toussaint, who shaped the brand’s creative direction from 1933 to 1970, brought the panther motif into three-dimensional form. This design philosophy, characterized by her appreciation for voluminous elements and striking color contrasts, continues in the latest Panthère bracelet-like jewelry watches. Presented in a “you and me” configuration, the sculptural representation of the panther seems to protect the face of the timepiece, merging the boundaries between accessory and adornment. Undoubtedly, the powerful physique of this fierce predator, crafted in yellow gold with tsavorite gemstone eyes set against a black lacquered backdrop, bestows upon its owner an intimidating presence.
The new Cartier Tressage watch showcases a feeling of depth and contrast. This timepiece features twisted rows of rounded gold beads—on one version adorned with diamonds—framing the face, paying homage to Jeanne Toussaint and her remarkable style.
Marie-Laure Cereda, who serves as the creative director for watches and jewelry, states that the Tressage marks a fresh frontier in horology.
She explains, ‘If the Tressage embodies Cartier’s mastery in blending jewellery with horology, it goes beyond being just a jeweled timepiece.’ For this design, they emphasized and intensified the traditional elements of a watch. By increasing the size and extending the lugs, they created a sensuously voluminous form. Not quite a bracelet or a leather band, Tressage delves into that distinctive and unconventional domain which Cartier holds dear – watches that belong to neither category but rather merge watchmaking and jewelry into one authentic hybrid.’
At Chanel, they also explored golden volume themes, introducing a new twisted gold bracelet to the Première collection. This adds a stylish twist to a timepiece originally unveiled by the house back in 1987 when it entered the realm of ladies’ watches for the first time. The Chanel Première Galon draws inspiration from the brand’s roots, featuring a signature woven braid—a favorite design element of Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel—who often used these braids to adorn her suits, as well as pockets and cuffs. Today, this detail remains evident in their creations, highlighting how small touches can make significant impacts both in fashion and high-quality watchmaking.
Piaget continues to showcase its prowess in goldsmithing too with novelties and high jewellery watches that reference its golden period of the 60s and 70s – one that feels more relevant than ever, as evident in the striking Essentia watch.
What then do we make of a gold watch in 2025? It stands for achievement, without question. Undeniably, it signifies refined preferences. Above all else, recent trends suggest that accomplishment, discernment—and even influence—can manifest in various guises. Regardless, aligning oneself with current sentiments through an unapologetic approach to fashion and accessories represents the pinnacle of assertiveness.
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The article initially appeared on the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com), which serves as the premier source for news coverage of China and Asia.
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