The cosmetics sector in China flourished during the Tang Dynasty, offering an extensive array of products with a broad spectrum of components.
Those who have watched a historical drama from Mainland China understand well the crucial part makeup played in the lives of ancient Chinese aristocrats.
Representations of famous historical characters like Yang Guifei, one of the “Four Beauties” from ancient China, frequently depict them wearing intricate makeup.
Nevertheless, makeup held equal importance in the daily life culture of ordinary folks.
Are you looking for insights into the most significant issues and developments globally? Find your answers here.
SCMP Knowledge
Our updated platform features handpicked content including explainers, FAQs, analyses, and infographics, all provided by our acclaimed team.
A research paper from China, released in late September, examined the application of makeup amongst the middle-to-upper classes during the Tang dynasty (618-907).
The research team found that for those with the means to purchase them, cosmetics were a lively part of everyday routines. These items came in various types with different components, and the business environment linked to making these goods was quite active.
“As our culture exhibits consistency and continuity, cosmetics serve as tangible representations of societal norms and cultural values. Therefore, there isn’t much distinction between the kinds of makeup used during the Tang Dynasty and what we see today,” stated Wu Meng, who led the research at the Joint International Research Laboratory for Environmental and Social Archaeology at Shandong University.
She told the Post that cosmetics have a long history, with the earliest Chinese beauty products appearing during the Spring and Autumn Period (770-481 BC). This means that by the time the Tang dynasty arrived, cosmetic production had already undergone a millennium of development and refinement.
The primary distinction lies in the ingredients,” observed Wu. “During the Tang Dynasty, only plants, animals, natural minerals, and some synthetic inorganic substances were utilized as raw materials for cosmetics.
The research team examined the graves of numerous affluent commoners buried at a site in Xian, which served as the Tang dynasty’s capital. They found that makeup during the Tang period was made using ingredients like moths, animal fats, plant oils, and resin, amongst other things.
Similar to modern practices, animal fat was mainly used as a skin moisturizer. The study revealed that the addition of vegetable oil in the contents of more recent burial sites suggested progress in cosmetic preparations, as it enhanced the effectiveness of these moisturizing treatments.
Although it might appear unconventional to utilize animal fat in cosmetic products, this practice persists even now; actually, the majority of contemporary collagen therapies originate from animals.
“Humans naturally secrete oil from their skin for hydration, but when this isn’t sufficient, we rely on moisturizers,” explained Wu. “Since animal fats have essentially the same chemical makeup as human oils, they make the ideal option.”
The research further revealed that cosmetics crafted from minerals like graphite were used. The writers noted that due to graphite’s “smooth consistency,” it could readily be pulverized into a delicate dust, which was why it was often selected by ancient Chinese people to adorn their brows.
The study also revealed that cinnabar was combined with animal glue to create lipstick.
Although the old-fashioned ingredients were much more natural compared to today’s artificial makeup products, they posed health risks.
“Owing to contemporary science, we’ve gained insights into the detrimental impacts of heavy metals like lead and mercury on the human physique; hence, manufacturing norms rigorously restrict the levels of these heavy metals in present-day cosmetics,” stated Wu.
Cosmetics held significant importance within the local culture throughout the Tang Dynasty. Similar to modern times, they turned into an everyday essential for the middle and upper echelons of society, thereby fostering a sophisticated industry involving artisans, merchants, and buyers.
Nevertheless, Wu mentioned that the cosmetics industry back then was significantly smaller compared to what we see today.
She mentioned, ‘Ultimately, it remained an agricultural society with significantly lower levels of output and technological advancement compared to contemporary times.’
An intriguing point is that despite China’s extensive history with white-powder makeup, the researchers discovered not a single instance of such powders among the numerous containers they examined.
The group posited that wealthy commoners started adopting makeup styles from the elite class yet simultaneously streamlined their cosmetic approach. This shift involved discarding white foundation while continuing with colored products like lipsticks and eyebrow powders.
More Articles from SCMP
China uses water cannon against Philippine vessels that ‘intruded’ into waters close to Scarborough Shoal.
China’s dinosaur studies poised for international recognition with inaugural expeditions to Central Asia
SCMP Top Picks: Gamblers Might Hit the Jackpot with Steady Performer at the Valley Racecourse
Japanese Prime Minister Ishiba removes Russia collaboration post, indicating a more stringent approach towards Moscow.
The article initially appeared on the South ChinaMorning Post (www.scmp.com), which serves as the premier source for news coverage of China andAsia.
Copyright © 2024. South China Morning Post Publishers Ltd. All rights reserved.
