As voyagers, we frequently ponder what it would be like not just to travel great lengths but also through different eras. Could there possibly be somewhere—a hidden spot or perhaps a magical contraption—that could whisk us away to times past, where existence felt serene and uncluttered, seafood arrived straight from the waters, and evenings echoed with the calming rhythm of oceanic sounds beneath a canopy lit up by countless celestial bodies?
Indeed, there exists such a location in the Philippines: the secluded village of Chavayan situated on the island of Sabtang within Batanes province. This community, inhabited by roughly 200 individuals, boasts sturdy stone dwellings—many constructed more than a hundred years ago—and preserves age-old customs that have influenced the Ivatan people for approximately 4,000 years.
Ancestry and architecture
The descendants of the Ivatans trace their roots back to Austronesian settlers who reached these islands during the Neolithic age. These early inhabitants resided in protected hillside villages known as idiangs and communicated using a dialect similar to those spoken by Taiwan’s indigenous communities. In 1783, under Governor-General José Basco y Vargas, Batanes officially joined the Philippine archipelago. Throughout Spain’s colonization period, techniques involving lime-based materials were brought over, leading to the creation of structures such as bridges, pathways, and religious edifices. This knowledge was embraced by the Ivatan people for constructing resilient stonework homes capable of enduring the area’s severe climate conditions. Numerous remnants from this epoch remain intact today; particularly well-maintained specimens stand out prominently within the town of Chavayen.
Getting there
Reaching Chavayan isn’t straightforward since Sabtang Island lacks an airport. You’ll first need to fly either from Manila or Clark to Basco in Batanes. Then you’ll journey overland to Ivana’s harbor before embarking on a half-hour trip aboard a falowa boat towards Mahatao. Afterward, hop onto a tricycle for about 30 more minutes until you get to your destination—Chavayan. The path to this slice of heaven involves some challenges: flights can be grounded because of bad weather, so travelers frequently spend the night in Basso just to make it onboard the morning vessel headed to Sabtang at six o’clock sharp.
In contrast to the usual outrigger boats prevalent in the Philippines, the falowa stands out as an indigenous vessel without outriggers, tailored particularly for traversing the tumultuous seas between Batan and Sabtang. Starting from the harbor in Mahatao, you’re roughly six kilometers away from reaching Chavayan; this trip can be made using touristic tricycles equipped with wooden sidecars topped with cogon roofs—or even by walking for those seeking an exhilarating adventure.
The road to Chavayan
The six-kilometer route from Mahatao to Chavayan presents some of the most beautiful road views in the country, giving travelers a preview of the wonders ahead. In Mahatao, you can explore centuries-old stone structures, visit the historic San Vicente Ferrer Church which was constructed in 1844, and admire the charming Mahatao Lighthouse.
Halfway through your journey is Barangay Savidug, a village recognized for its meticulously maintained stonework houses. Perched atop an adjacent hill sits the historic Savidug idjiang, estimated to date back approximately 4,000 years. This ancient mountaintop fortress was constructed as a defensive measure against both hostile forces and environmental dangers faced by the earlier settlers.
Right before reaching Chavayan, visitors have the option to take a side trip to the Chamantad-Tinan Viewdeck. After a brief hike up the gentle, grass-covered hills, they will be rewarded with an impressive view of Chamantad Cove along with its secluded sandy shore.
Frozen in time
At the journey’s conclusion, Chavayan conveys an atmosphere where time seems frozen. Over the last 12 years, during my three visits, very little has altered; the unchanging vista that welcomed travelers a hundred years back persists even now.
On the right side of the village entrance is a small store run by the Sabtang Weavers Association. The people of Chavayan are famed for crafting the best vakul (a woven headgear) and kanayi (a vest) in Batanes. Made from the leaves of the vuyavuy tree, the vakul protects against sun and rain and can double as a mat or small pillow for field workers. Locals also produce unique sandals from vuyavuy, affectionately named “Chavayanas.”
Down below, you’ll find a modest chapel devoted to Sta. Rosa de Lima, built from 1951 to 1959 featuring a thatched roof made of cogon grass, reflecting the Ivatan tradition known as yaru (akin to the Filipino value of bayanihan). Those choosing to spend the night might observe communal prayers early in the morning when locals seek blessings for protection and prosperity prior to heading off either fishing or farming.
A journey into the past
In Chavayan, both electricity and mobile phone signals are scarce, and lodgings are quite rudimentary. The meals typically include either flying fish or mahi-mahi, cooked according to traditional methods. This place isn’t suited for all travelers—it’s meant for individuals daring enough to immerse themselves fully in an old-world lifestyle that has mostly vanished from modern existence.
In Chavayan, contemporary amenities yield to more traditional, timeless patterns—a testament that certain areas continue to keep history vibrantly present. For those eager to embark on a voyage not only through space but also back in time, Chavayan offers an extraordinary and indelible adventure.
