A fjord in Spain’s Basque region? With its grand sea inlet cutting through sandstone cliffs, Pasaia surely fits the image. Situated mere kilometers away from San Sebastián, this harbor diligently maintains its legacy, blending nature and culture seamlessly.
Winding its way between the Ulia and Jaizkibel mountains, the Pasaia – which means “passage” in Basque – river is a breathtaking sight. This former whaling town, heir to a thousand-year-old maritime tradition, is an invitation to explore its picturesque lanes and delightful coastal trails.
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Two banks, one shared past.
On the other side of the channel, you can see the two shores of Pasaia, connected by the
motoras
, traditional shuttles that endlessly connect these two realms. One side features Donibane, which centers around a solitary cobblestone thoroughfare adorned with fishermen’s homes painted in colorful woods, alongside stately mansions from the 16th century.
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and 17
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Among these, the museum in question spans centuries.
Victor Hugo’s house
The individual who resided there in 1843 keeps alive both their recollection and wonderment for “this splendid and delightful location, embodying a unique blend of happiness and magnificence—a never-before-seen site that ranks among the loveliest I’ve ever encountered.” Near the waterfront, several structures boldly emerge straight from the ría, imparting Pasaia with an indistinct resemblance to Venice.
The sensation of a harbor
Across from Pasaia, you’ll discover San Pedro, a more frequented town known for its genuine ambiance centered around its fishing harbor. This is where the
fascinating Albaola shipyard
At the naval center, Basque maritime history comes alive. Inside this cultural hub, craftsmen work diligently to reconstruct the San Juan—a vessel among the earliest to make transatlantic journeys to Newfoundland before sinking off the coast of Canada in 1563. This ambitious endeavor preserves traditional shipbuilding methods that define the region’s seafaring heritage. Similarly, the cherished drag racing events celebrated locally draw direct inspiration from the historical activities of Basque whale hunters.
Between the heavens and the ocean
This outstanding location is complemented by the nearby mountainous terrain. Starting from San Pedro, the seaside trail leads upwards towards Faro de la Plata, a lighthouse featuring towers reminiscent of a storybook, providing stunning views of the surroundings.
San Sebastian along with its famous Concha Bay
You can ascend to the peak of Jaizkibel, which stands at the highest elevation along the Cantabrian coast, starting from the opposite bank of the river. Hidden behind these sandstone escarpments lie strikingly colorful and undulating rock formations that appear nearly hallucinatory. These elevated areas were formerly utilized by whalers for observation purposes. Today, they host enigmatic megalithic stone circles—a common sight throughout the Basque region. This coastal trail provides seasoned trekkers with an unparalleled journey across rugged heathlands and dramatic cliff faces dotted occasionally with secluded bays. All panoramic vistas seen from this route are breathtakingly beautiful.
Basque delicacies
The regional dishes highlight the bounty of the ocean using time-honored skills.
family-run Casa Camara
The restaurant, founded in 1884 at a location dating back to 17th century.
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A 100-year-old structure maintains an intriguing tradition: within the eating area, lobsters and crawfish navigate a live fish tank supplied by the tidal waters of the adjacent ría (an inlet formed where a river meets the sea). Similarly, various traditional restaurants uphold this legacy. For instance,
venerable Txulotxo
Celebrate this maritime tradition with iconic dishes such as baked hake called koxka or the refined txangurro (spider crab au gratin).
On
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