I find myself tucked away in a corner of the eatery where pandemonium reigns supreme. Inside, the decor is dizzying, featuring retro neon lights, gilded dragons, and massive iron fences.
The atmosphere is electric.
In recent moments, six large shared dishes have been placed on our table. Upon quickly calculating the total cost, I am amazed to find out that this abundant meal came to just £88.
I find it difficult to keep up my etiquette as I see steam rising from the main course — an exquisite lobster coated in a luscious, sugary sauce.
Conversation holds no appeal for me now. I’m ready to dine.
Of course, I am in Hong Kong, a dynamic metropolis sure to dazzle your senses in extraordinary ways. Whether you’re indulging in globally celebrated street cuisine or interacting with some of the most welcoming individuals around, this city—hailed as the epicenter of Asian gastronomy—is truly a traveler’s paradise.
And, as
tourism
After finally recovering from the pandemic – with 44.5 million international visitors arriving in 2024, marking a 40% increase over the prior year – there has never been a more thrilling time to explore this gastronomic haven.
First impressions
Following a 13-hour journey, I am relieved to arrive at our initial accommodation, the 4-star Dorsett Wan Chai Hotel. The price is quite reasonable, beginning at just HK$700 (£69) for each night. Situated right in the heart of both bustling business and lively entertainment areas of Wan Chai and Causeway Bay, this location offers easy access to numerous markets and fashionable boutiques nearby.
When I step into my room, I get the feeling of being the protagonist in a romantic comedy. I make a beeline for the large bed and do a dramatic header first dive until something catches my eye—a breathtaking vista from the floor-to-ceiling window showcasing sleek modern skyscrapers standing side by side with historic structures dating back to the 1800s.
I can also spot the Happy Valley racetrack, said to be the premier place for midweek night life activities. For just an entrance fee of HK$10 (99p), both residents and tourists come together for ‘Happy Wednesday,’ offering a peculiar mix of horse races, entertainment acts, as well as delicious food and drinks.
The hotel is incredibly welcoming; one might easily imagine themselves indulging in bed, enjoying room service, and observing life pass by from their window. However, recognizing this as an unforgettable journey, I gather my strength to venture out and experience nighttime Hong Kong, taking advantage of the complimentary five-minute shuttle ride from the hotel to Central.
Surrounded by vibrant lights and bustling eateries, I’m taken aback by the sense of security I experience in this metropolis home to 7.5 million residents. For women, travel often includes an extra layer of vigilance—always monitoring your belongings and staying aware of those nearby.
Yet here, I find myself freely taking in every noise, vision, and scent. It feels incredibly freeing.
A culinary haven
There’s no denying that Hong Kong is a haven for food enthusiasts. The culinary scene is renowned, offering a wide range of options from classic Cantonese eateries to high-end restaurants awarded by Michelin guides, which blend local ingredients and tastes with global inspirations. Traditional street food remains a significant part of the city’s gastronomic landscape.
While visiting Cheung Chau Island, which lies 10 kilometers southwest of Hong Kong Island and serves as a popular escape for locals during the summertime, I make my way to one of the stalls along the water’s edge.
Looking at the vibrant wooden boats floating gently on the water, I savor a delicious egg tart. Each mouthful feels divine, with its flaky butter crust giving way to a smooth custard center, priced at HK$12.5 (£1.24) each. Returning to Central, I notice a throng gathered outside Bakehouse, where this treat has become wildly popular. What was once an obscure delight now draws large crowds.
TikTok
has turned the bakery into a Hong Kong institution.
I still relish the tangy flavor as I head over to Cafe Bau in Wan Chai, a farm-to-table themed eatery led by Michelin-starred chef Alvin Leung.
Similar to all my previous dining experiences, I am amazed by the abundance of dishes served. While enjoying an eight-course tasting menu that includes items such as pork knuckle and spiny lobster, I feel as though I’m indulging in a feast.
Man v. Food
.
Even though my belly is satisfied, my taste buds compel me to eat every last bit. After all, this could be the sole opportunity I get to sample it, considering the fixed menu costs HK$1,288 (£128.48) per person.
For dessert, I stop by Bar Leone, an atmospheric place known for its moody ambiance and named as the top bar in Asia for 2024. There, I sample a smooth Olive Oil Sour priced at HK$150 (£14.90), accompanied by garlic-infused olives. In Hong Kong, hunger will never be your issue.
LIFEHACK ID’s Top Hong Kong Tip #1
Board a ferry at Central Pier heading to Cheung Chau Island. This trip takes about 30 minutes and will cost you HK$23.20 (£2.31). To make payment easier, consider using an Octopus Card—a rechargeable, contactless smart card used extensively throughout Hong Kong. Think of it as an enhanced version of an Oyster card since it also works for meals, leisure activities, and retail purchases. Simply load funds onto your card before setting off.
A changing cityscape
Hong Kong serves as Asia’s premier center for the arts. Each March, the city metamorphoses into a vast exhibition space. Art lovers and creators come together from across the globe, with displays, exhibits, and shows taking precedence throughout the area.
Graffiti and street art make up a significant portion of
innovative atmosphere in Hong Kong
, and one cannot escape the impact of Eastern and Western influences. (Hong Kong was under a contentious 156-year British rule prior to the handover,)
China
in 1997.)
In every neighborhood, you’ll find Instagram-worthy murals painted on walls, ranging from sanctioned to unsanctioned artwork.
While on a walking tour with
Wanderlust Walks
Our guide, Alex, navigates us through the vibrant neighborhoods of Central and Sheung Wan, recounting ‘off-the-beaten-path’ tales. These stories often shed light on the societal problems that affect Hong Kong.
A local guerrilla artist named Go Hung produces street installations using reclaimed materials. His well-known Nest Series features baskets placed in trees adorned with the phrase ‘rent high’ in vibrant lettering, highlighting the housing crisis and escalating property costs in the area.
An affordable long-haul
For my last couple of evenings, I’m staying at the luxurious 5-star Dorsett Kai Tak hotel in Hong Kong. Although the cost of living here can vary based on your choice of lodging, accommodations typically fall within a reasonable range.
Upon discovering the city’s luxurious rooftop bars and infinity pools, I am taken aback to find out that my accommodation costs just HK$973 (£96.79) per night.
Across from the hotel lies Kai Tak Sports Park, which stands as Hong Kong’s biggest sporting complex. While enjoying my early-morning coffee, I observe athletes racing around the track, turning it into my personal Olympic spectacle.
The park serves both as a key entertainment hub and a venue for concerts, which makes it an ideal spot to remain at if you possess a ticket for any happening there.
The Kai Tak district is home to numerous karaoke venues as well. I had an incredible experience at a small joint near my hotel, singing my heart out within just five minutes’ walk away.
Amy Winehouse
While enjoying a Blue Girl, the regional Hong Kong brew, karaoke comes at no extra cost. A communal bucket of beer containing six 330ml bottles is priced at HK$180 (£17.88).
With departure looming, I’m crestfallen that I could merely touch upon the essence of this enchanting location. Between the warmest of welcomes and the delectable cuisine, a void shaped like Hong Kong has formed within me.
Where can you find directions to reach Hong Kong and what’s the ideal period for your visit?
The shoulder seasons in Hong Kong occur from March through early May and again from September to early October. During this time, temperatures typically hover between 21°C and 28°C. Given that your visit will likely involve following an itinerary rather than lounging at the beach, these periods offer ideal weather conditions with milder crowds for exploring all that Hong Kong has to offer. Summers tend to be unbearably hot and humid, frequently hitting around 31°C.
We travel with Finnair as our carrier from
London Heathrow
to
Helsinki
And moving on to Hong Kong. Economy return tickets start at £532. The newly awarded business class seats begin at £2,025. As a first-time traveler in business class, I feel like a kid in a candy store, marveling at the innovative non-reclining seat.
I switch
Emilia Perez
On my spacious 18-inch display, I savor several glasses of champagne along with some pesto pasta until my eyelids grow heavy. However, there’s no cause for concern as I press the button that converts my cozy recliner into a sleeping surface. After putting on my sleep mask, I drift off into a restful slumber. The innovative ambient lighting (designed to alleviate jet lag symptoms) serves as a thoughtful gesture, while the ‘Do Not Disturb’ sign placed outside my suite informs the amiable flight attendants that I’m fast asleep.
Sophie-May Williams was a visitor sponsored by the Hong Kong Tourism Board and Finnair.
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